Rose Cuttings.

Sue, I used what you posted, ""wedding bouquet rose cuttings" into "google", looked at the options, went to the one which seemed to offer the result we needed, copied the link from where all the WWW appear along the "white" line on my computer and then pasted it.
Does that compute or make sense.  

David I agree with you I think the problem is damping off.

FONGARID 250 WP is a systemic fungicide that controls damping off and root diseases caused by Pythium and Phytophthora fungi in ornamental flowers, shrubs and trees.

Balinbear - who IS Margaret Furness? I saw a lot of photos taken by her on HMF when I was looking at Alister Clark roses.

(Sorry- off topic. Novice here).

roseman wrote:My guess Paul all suffered from 'damping off, in other words to wet, could this be right ?

Thanks David, I guess you could be right, I did try putting a lot of holes in the top cover as well as in the part that holds the cuttings, to try and cut down the dampness. Maybe my inexperience in gauging the amount of moisture was the problem, I get the feeling that they really need to be on the dry side all the time.

Ausrose wrote:David I agree with you I think the problem is damping off.

FONGARID 250 WP is a systemic fungicide that controls damping off and root diseases caused by Pythium and Phytophthora fungi in ornamental flowers, shrubs and trees.

Thanks Ausrose, Fongarid, could you please let me know how this works in the cutting dramas. Ta

long lasting disease control, up to 10 weeks
flexible application (apply as a pre-plant soil mix, as a post-plant soil drench or soil surface spray)
safe for a large range of ornamental species

muscovyduckling wrote:(Sorry- off topic. Novice here).

That is not off topic Zoe, you are just enquiring who Margaret is. Gary(Balinbear) might add more, she is a rose grower in SA and works/volunteers at David Ruston's in the old garden rose area and is a lady that is keeping the older form of rose alive, if that helps.

Thanks David. I wish she would come talk to us here on the forum. I like looking at her pictures on HMF.

Thanks ausrose for that info. It got me thinking a bit. It I be right in asuming that one could use this product as an on going care managing tool. I guess when plants are struggling I imediately go and look at my feeding methods, whilst the problem could well lay at the roots. Could this product be used on Gardeenias, flowring plums and Hydranges? Thanks

Firstly, thanks David.  I "think" it does compute!!  Will give it a go.  Really appreciate your help.

This Fongarid sounds to be good stuff to apply when first doing your cuttings.  Is this right?  Would you apply it anyway as a prevention rather than a cure?

muscovyduckling wrote:Thanks David. I wish she would come talk to us here on the forum. I like looking at her pictures on HMF.

Margaret used to come onto the board but is generally too busy. As David said she is one of the driving forces in the preservation of old and found (ie unknown) roses.

More to the Fongarid, has anyone used Phosphorous Acid yates have it called anti rot. Don burke was saying in his opinion Phosphorous Acid is a far better product to use, would this be safe to use on roses? If so it would be far far far cheaper to use than Fongarid. Any thoughts please.  

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These two are commercial packs of what Yates would be selling, for the cost I would at least try it.

The other thing you could consider is Copper Hydroxide as fumigant.

I was interested to read Don Bourke's opinion of Fongarid and good well be right as fungi as well as other pests can develop a resistance to particular chemicals.  
Another point I would make about Fongarid is it is specifically for control of Pythium and Phytophthora fungi it isn't against other soil-born fungi such as Rhizoctonia, Botrytis and Fusarium.

My suggestion is suck it and see.
With reference to cuttings I would make 24 cuttings of the same rose place them in the same medium, divide them into groups of 8 and use Fongarid on one group, Yates Anti Rot (Phosphorous acid) on another and leave on group untreated and see what happens.

I would see the treatment of fungi as a cure all and would only use it on "sick" plants but before I try anything I would check the Ph if it is 6.5 to 7 I would start looking for other problems such as fungi.

Nematodes or curl grub are two other nasties that attack the root system and the rose loses its vigour so sometimes it is a matter of trial and error to find out what is causing the problem.

Thank you Ausrose!  

SueH wrote:Thank you Ausrose!  

And make sure (as sure as you can) that the root stock used on your plants is the best for your conditions (ie Soil PH, Climate etc)

Oh Dear Balinbear!  What root stock should I be looking for please?!  I'm S.E. Melbourne, not coastal.

Sue are you going to grow your own, or purchase from a nursery. The most common is a form of 'multiflora', but I see a trend towards "Dr Phoey" or Dr Huey as it is called.
If you by from a producer, you could ask them, if you buy from a "shop" you could ask them who there supplier is and then backtrack.

Hold on a minute. How did we go from rooting cuttings to grafting onto rootstock?

Sue, are you going to try grafting? I was under the impressions that budwood was grafted immediately to a rootstock, without any callousing or root formation...?

roseman wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

These two are commercial packs of what Yates would be selling, for the cost I would at least try it.

The other thing you could consider is Copper Hydroxide as fumigant.

Thanks for those links David, as I have stated on numerous occasions, price is always a factor. A packet of Fongarid for $17 would only treat 10 pots, using it as a drench, as my pots being on average 500mm diameter.

Yes Zoe, I am talking about cuttings, not root stock.  I was just querying about different root stock for different area and wondered if this was taken into consideration when roses are sold in different areas o if you see what I mean!  It was just interest, that's all.  I'm not clever enough to graft roses,  I have trouble getting cuttings to grow!! I feel like this.....!

Hehe me too. I am bad at cuttings.

Darth Vader, "said" we will teach you how to graft/bud raise seedlings. Patience is a virtue, seldom in a woman, always in a man, this is why there is always a woman behind a man. Look at of our leader world wide there has always been a woman behind the "man"