Ozeboy's roses

I visited Bruce last Monday and took these photos of his own roses he has grafted himself. I will let Bruce tell you about when he budded them and when he latter activated them.

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I think Bruce said this one was Mme Isaac Periere.

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For some reason I wasn't able to put these all in one post. One wouldn't stay rotated the right way after it had been rotated. Then once I started to edited it kept cancelling my photos as I would add another one until it would only take two. Earlier I had been loading 5 or 6 photos as it won't hold more than that. Even after turning off my computer and coming back to it this morning it was the same. Maybe my computer plays up sometimes.

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Arn't these fantastic roses ? I have some more to post latter.

Thank you Karen for taking the pix.

The Mme Isaac Pereire is an ownroot sent to me by Margaret and is a truly beautiful rose for fragrance and form. Thank you very much Margaret.

The grafted roses are top a Tea rose and the bottom an old HT.

These two were grafted (Budded ) April 2009 and buds activated ( Tops cut off ) end second week of August 2009. I have had exceptional growth from budded roses this season. This could be due to a slightly modified graft that I have been trialing. They have grown so fast that extra precaution is needed to prevent the grafts from breaking when very windy hence the stakes.

Your welcome Bruce, thankyou for letting me visit you a lot.
Here is another photo of Bruce's younger Teas. I will let Bruce tell you about them again.

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Bruce, do you want to explain your modified graft? I would like to be able to improve m y grafting so I have a better success rate so I will be most grateful or any help you can give.

Dee, I don't think it makes a great amount of difference how you graft, T, inverted T, chip, inlay or punch etc. What does make a great difference is the amount of cambium contact. Marrying up bud cambium with the stock cambium is critical. You may notice how some budding is better than others and you get variation in the first initial growth.
The industry seems to favour T budding because it is very fast but the Mexican contract budders just make a scoop which seems to work and is very very quick.
I read some years ago an article written by the CSIRO that chip budding produces better growth all things being equal. I persued this method so as to extend the time budding can be done.
Whatever method gives the most amount of cambium and alines the growth tissue is the best.

Bruce, I've enjoyed the pics, refering to the pods, it looks like in our garden .

Budding is a new challenge for me, I begun the breeding before propagation. This year I had only 2 rootstocks 'Laxa' available but I believe my 1st attempts have failed. The problem was that the Rootstock would not peel ( if you understand what I mean, maybe you have an other expression)
My conclusion was to make better a chipping next time but on a german site it's written that the chipping method have to be done min 10 cm above the rootneck. That will not work, esp. in hard winters

can you confirm this, do you have any proposal

P.S. : for the next year I found seeds from Multiflora (thornless) in the public green. The Seedlings I will use as rootstock , believe also that this one will be better grow, in our dry and very sandy soil, as the 'laxa'.

budding regards
Bernhard

Bemo, I know what you mean by bark slip which is necessary for any method where the bud is slipped under the bark on the stock.
Chip budding can be done anytime of the year but is a lot better if the sap is running and the bark is lifted easily.
I have no knowledge of new budded plants in snow but must mention the Mexicans bud in just about every climate in the world that roses will grow. They make a scoop with a 5 to 6mm wide blade in both sion ( bud ) and stock.
The two fit together very accurately aligning the cambium. The first shoot is usually cut back to prevent Blow Offs. This usually encourages two side shoots so you end up with 3 main canes from the bud area.
The mistake people make especially ownroot growers is putting pressure on budders to grow a rose in one season. before the graft has strengthened.
I was very happy with last seasons budding but it produced extremely long growth as you can see, perhaps too good as extra care had to be taken with new shoots.

Bruce, I have just got back from Lyn's garden and caught up with Karen. The roses that you sent up look great. I did notice you have used your punch and I assume some of the others are chip buds. I could not work out your modified method that Dee was asking about, could you explain it, please as I might try it if you do not mind. The other thing is with the Mexicans scoop bud, how is that performed.

Hi David, pleased you liked the roses I sent up to Lyns. None of these are punch grafted as I gave that away due to sion and stock thickness variation. They are all chip budded with slight variation in the cambium contact. The two modified extra cuts hopefully make it easier to get them
aligned better with less fiddling. I know you have T budded thousands but I am no expert and still a hobbyist come fiddler. However I was very pleased with the result and your comments.
My aim is to make available roses that are growing really well that can be planted out and continue to grow well. Plants that are growth checked from being pot bound seem to stand still with very slow growth thereafter.

The method I have been trying to fine tune started with an error when the
rind split vertically just on and below the cut out for the bud placement. I nearly tossed it out as a reject but marked the label and left it in anyway.
This error graft proved to be the best grower in well over 200 buds.
This has prompted me to do a few variations of this hoping to find the best way to cut the stock and as a result alter the sion cut also.

First cut the bud starting 6 to 7 mm above the bud eye and finishing about 7 to 8mm below. Then make a 45 degree cut horizontally across the bud to release it from the stick. You now have a 14 to 15mm long bud with a chisel shaped end that is on the bottom of the bud. The bevel cut is across the rind side. The bud is cut thin and wood is left on.

Make a vertical cut in the stock about 6mm long and a horizontal cut 2mm from the top of the horizontal cut. You will notice the rind seperates exposing the cambium. Leave the knife in the horizontal cut and place the bud behind it gently pushed down. Remove the knife while holding the bud in the bottom of the horizontal cut and cut the rind to length . Leaving a little gap at the top insures the bud will fit very close to the stock cut out.
Wrap tightly with 12mm wide budding tape to make sure it is water tight. Start at the bottom below the bud and wrap over the edge of the previous turn so water running down can't run into the tape.

Do not bud durinjg rain or water stocks a lot before budding as the moisture will build up in the bud area and cause the bud to rot. Don't have the stock and budding material dry or they won't join properly. Just have everything growing very well.

David, thats the best I can do as my computer skills do not allow me to do drawings. I really think it's worth a try, best of luck to you and all those budders out there.

David, last I heard the Mexicans do all Swanes and travel the world catching the seasons right for budding.

The knife is 5mm wide and asume it is pushed into the sion or stock and is turned with a twisting motion making a neat looking half circle looking cut out. The half round sion bud fits exactly into the half round cut out in the stock so the cambium aligns perfectly like the punch system does.

I have a book called the Grafter's Handbook by R J Garner. I bought it over 30 years ago from an Armidale University Hortoculture Graduate and have been grafting ever since.
The author has great skills and I think he could graft everything from the tip of the roots to the top of a 40 ft Oak Tree. Amazing how he shows the thickness of bark and how deep the cambium is depending on the age of that part of the tree.
Hope this answers your question.

Bemo, sorry I forgot to mention that most any fast growing rose will make good rootstocks for budding. Some sucker more than others when brused or cut while working around the roses. You can grow from seed to make sure stocks are virus free or use clean trialled mother bushes. Avoid using the tops of last years budded stocks as they may have picked up a virus.

We mostly use Multiflora here and plant a 200mm long stick with all eyes removed except the top 2. An angle cut is is made at 45 degrees across the back of the botton bud eye that has also been removed. Push the stick into a fast draining soil mix about two thirds of its length. You should get the top 2 remaining buds to shoot within 3 weeks depending on temperature.
If the stick turns black ( Dampening off ) try again but use a faster draining soil or potting mix. Keep damp but not wet.

Best of luck.

Is this something like it?