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Blow Offs. (New Budded shoots )

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rosemeadow
Ozeboy
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Post by Ozeboy 23rd January 2010, 16:27

Simon I did a lengthy post re this subject and so far it seems lost.

I click on SEND up comes the post, I wait until it shows up under the last post, then go back later and it has disappeared. ???????????

Ozeboy

Number of posts : 1673
Location : Glenorie, Sydney NSW
Registration date : 2008-12-28

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Post by Ozeboy 23rd January 2010, 16:28

Sorry Simon I am too impatient

Ozeboy

Number of posts : 1673
Location : Glenorie, Sydney NSW
Registration date : 2008-12-28

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Post by wedge 23rd January 2010, 21:29

Simon, next time you're up in this neck of the woods, drop in and i'll show you what growth is all about. All of my climbers are doing well, but one in particular, Papa Meilland, has canes that i'd estimate are at least 4mtrs long. I planted it as a bare rooted rose in mid August. It only had a few canes to start with and i was a bit worried it was going to be long and scraggy but it eventually threw out a shoot down near the ground. I noticed the new shoot one morning and by late that afternoon, it had broken off. During the day it grew so fast that i failed to notice that it grew right through those tags that the nurseries place around the base of their roses. The shoot grew inside but couldn't get right through so made a "U" turn and snapped off. It has since grown another shoot that is now about 600mm long and as thick as your thumb...and growing fast !!! I decided right from the start not to use chemicals unless absolutely necessary and only use natural fertilisers (horse poo and blood and bone).
wedge
wedge

Number of posts : 198
Age : 71
Location : Marian (Pioneer Valley-west of Mackay)
Registration date : 2009-09-29

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Post by Carole 23rd January 2010, 23:08

Bruce, when you say activate, which I have never heard in rose circles that I have been included in. Do you mean that once a cane has been budded , you have growth from the two top shoots that you have left and your bud is showing good growth you do as we say top it. Taking off the top of the briar with the growth and then leaving the budded shoot ?
Carole
Carole

Number of posts : 1034
Age : 22
Location : Mudgee, NSW
Registration date : 2009-04-16

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Post by Carole 23rd January 2010, 23:11

Horse poo is the best Dave. At David Austins rose gardens everything is growing in it -now all I need is a racing stables to be started here roflmao
Carole
Carole

Number of posts : 1034
Age : 22
Location : Mudgee, NSW
Registration date : 2009-04-16

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Post by Ozeboy 24th January 2010, 18:05

I have tried to reply but my post just keeps getting lost.
It appears as OK but doesn't stay?????

Ozeboy

Number of posts : 1673
Location : Glenorie, Sydney NSW
Registration date : 2008-12-28

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Post by Guest 2nd February 2010, 14:41

In the 1890s Heyne's Nursery described Cloth of Gold as very hard to strike from cuttings. They weren't wrong. So I got Bruce to bud a local survivor plant for me, and he sent me some nice young plants via a friend. One shoot peeled off soon after arrival, so I re-potted the other plants with the bud union below the soil for support, and treated the peeled-off shoot as I do warm-weather cuttings. That is, with two leafless nodes in about 10cm of damp potting mix, and 2 or 3 nodes with leaves above the soil, in a closed 30 x 25cm, ziplock clear plastic bag, with 1 - 2cm of the bottom corners cut off; put where it would get light but not direct sunlight. It struck roots. Worth trying as a last -ditch rescue for blowoffs.
If you want to try this method for cuttings; you can dip the end of the cutting into rooting hormone or honey. Each bag will take about 3 cuttings; write the name and date on the outside with a garden marker pen. If using a general potting mix, I add a couple of handfuls of Coles' basic (NOT clumping) kittylitter as aerator - much cheaper than vermiculite or Perlite. I put several bags in a kittylitter tray from El Cheapo's to support each other, and to stop them staining my verandah. The essential thing is not to let the drainage holes be blocked. You can open the bag to remove flower buds and fallen leaves, or blow into it to plump it up, but make sure it's closed properly afterwards. Give additional water only if there aren't many droplets visible on the inside of the bag. When good roots are visible in the bottom of the bag (and not before), leave the bag open for several days to harden off the plant (it will probably need some water at this stage). When you pot it out, water it with dilute Seasol, and shelter it from wind for some weeks, as it will be top-heavy. Introduce gradually to sunlight over a couple of weeks.
In the southern states this works well from mid-November till the end of February as starting date. You can start looking for roots at about 4 weeks for ramblers, and about 6 weeks for Teas. HTs, especially yellows, are generally slower and harder to strike.


Last edited by Margaret on 2nd February 2010, 14:57; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Addition)

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Post by Ozeboy 10th February 2010, 10:36

Sorry can't get posts to stick here have posted many times with answers to your questions

Ozeboy

Number of posts : 1673
Location : Glenorie, Sydney NSW
Registration date : 2008-12-28

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