Missing something - in the soil?

Hi.....David I'm back again? I have a rose in a large pot (LD Braithwaite).  I have been on this forum before and received great feedback, however I have (had, hopefully) a problem with possums who view the rose as breakfast, lunch or dinner.  I battled through winter and each time it had new growth and/or buds it got mown off.  To say I was discouraged is an understatement however I persevered trying various remedies and have now hit on one that seems to work.  It is looking good and has a bud that is nearly open however the lower leaves look a bit strange with silver tracing along the skeleton of the leaf.  I feed it with an Orchid food that was recommended by you and have topped the level of the soil up with rose potting mix.  I have a photo but have forgotten how to upload it (I kept the instructions but this aging business means I have lost them!

Send me your phone number by PM. Turn the leaf over and see if you can see little spider mites, might need a magnifying glass.

AH! I can see very very tiny creatures, and what appears to be small webs at the junction of the leaves to the stem. The new leaves are clear except of a couple of suspect critters. The veined leaves end up dying. They are very, very hard to see even with a magnifying glass.

Found the instructions for posting.  This is a photo of the leaves.
 
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Nope! Still doing something wrong, will try again.

Right!!! Got that, this one is a photo of said rose, remembering that it is the first rose I have had bloom without a possum cutting it down in its prime.  I still don't think it is the right colour for a Braithwaite (and my only experience here is the picture on the tag!!)
 
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Chocolatescorpio wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

It looks like mildew, which is a fungal disease, which affects roses. The first signs of powdery mildew appear on young leaves, which hold their color but begin to crinkle. Then small patches of mold appear that develop into spore-bearing fungal filaments on foliage, stems and all other parts of the rose, even the buds (looks like a thin, white powdery substance sitting on growth, which steadily becomes deformed with the spread of the disease). It spreads in white strands, which anchor themselves to the foliage. From there the fungus will draw on the moisture and nutrients within the leaves. As soon as you see the crinkling of young rose leaves be on the watch; the sooner mildew is arrested the better. Mildew can spread thoughout the garden rapidly.

The disease is worst during hot, dry weather with cool, moist nights. Spores are dormant until they get the moisture required to germinate. Once the leaf surface is moist and remains moist (from overhead sprinkling or condensation) for about 3 hours, the mildew spores will begin to germinate. This can occur in damp, shady gardens where air circulation is poor, also where plants are stressed due to overcrowding or dehydration (plants insufficiently watered at the root level are often attacked by mildew). Plants grown in areas with not enough sunlight will produce thinner leaves making them more prone to infection. Also plants deficient in nutrients (especially calcium) have weaker leaf tissue and that makes them more vulnerable to disease.

It is important to keep roses well watered at the root level during hot days and prevent water from getting onto the leaves, especially before nightfall. Providing good air circulation between roses is vital. This helps dry up the roses more quickly. Good pruning methods and generous spacing between rose bushes when planting (generally 3 feet between hybrid teas and 4 feet between larger rose bushes is recommended). Treat dormant plants with lime sulphur in spring and spray with fungicidal soap.

John, not to go against your reply, but I believe it to be mites, are there any webs on them Chocolatescorpio and have you had any 'humidity recently

Yep there are little webs near the junction of the leaf and stem and I can see with a magnifying glass tiny wee 'things'. However we have not had any humidity, in fact it has been hot and dry, more like Canberra conditions, unusual for Brisbane, but then it's unusual to be so hot so early, we have had no spring.
Neptune has suggested mildew but my husband battles with mildew on his crepe myrtals and it doesn't look like that I don't think.
I will say that I had this problem right at the beginning, a year ago and since the poor plant has not had a chance to actually grow it was fairly confined. I 'pruned' it in desperation and this is the resulting growth

Hmmmmm...
 
Leaves damaged by twospotted mites
 
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Pat David on back symbol needed here , I have a fella here that I prune his Icebergs, every year and we go through it every year,
What do we treat it with you may ask, so ask away.

Those leaves look just like mine!!!! There are webs but I can't see any mites in them.
Sooooo I am asking 'what do I treat it with'?   

Jog my memory please, are you on a suburban block or land. What you need to purchase is Sulphur, Manutec sells one in i think 500g pack. It is to be applied early morning or late evening only, a few drops of soap with it to make it stick

Large suburban block, built on quartz and shale - hence the pot! I've just been down to the shed and I have a selection (didn't realize we were such a chemical family). So, Searles Wettable Sulphur, Searles Mancozeb Plus and Yates, Lime Sulphur. Still I suppose we live in Qld where if you stand still in the summer you grow mould!

Searles Wettable Sulphur looks good check what it says please

Right, 'Ornamentals, powdery mildew and two spotted mite - mix 20g - 35g in 10L of water. Apply when pest is first seen and repeat as necessary'.

See above instructions when to appy

Great, thanks for your help:Thankz: 

i find the best way to control two spotted mites is with eco-oil.