Organic fungal spray

Just found this recipe while surfing [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] (lovely site pity they are closed for the moment and dont send to Tasmania)
Spraying your Roses
What you need:
1 x 4ltr Sprayer
4 x teaspoons bi-carb soda
4 x Litres tempid water
20mls x Pest Oil or Eco Oil
This all round organic spray is great for treating both black spot and powdery mildew on roses. It works by changing the pH of the leaf surface, killing the current fungal disease and preventing new spores from hatching. Apply 3 times in the first 10 days and then approximately every 10-14 days. Avoid spraying when the conditions will be above 30C, with most effective application in the morning. This allows the leaf surface to dry through the day. If you don't use all of the spray make sure it is kept in a cool dark place and can be stored for upto 4-5 days. Mix well before reuse.

please be carefull. This year I've damaged some roses with a similar recipe (maybe wrong measue by the gardener ??? )

better first testing on limited plants.

injured regards
Bernhard

Thanks for the warning Bemo

I've resurrected this thread to see if anyone tried the above recipe?

I don't want to go ahead and try it without more info, after Bemo's experience.

i'm starting to get a bit desperate. Can anyone tell me what happens if I use a sulphur spray when the rose is not yet dormant. Does it damage the foliage?

Abbi, I have 2 questions for you.
1. are you using lime sulphur or elemental sulphur
2. What are you spraying for.

Lime sulphur is supposed to kill off spores of fungal disease in the dormant period after pruning, sprayed on the plant and around the ground below it.

Elemental Sulphur is used for mites and associated bugs. It will stay on the plant for up to 14 days. If rain occurs the time is reduced by 1 day for every 5mL of rain. Sulphur and water do not mix easily, so a wetting agent is best added, such as a soap, it reduces the surface tension of the water so the water particles can take up the sulphur. If you go ahead with a sulphur spray I recommend using it early morning in the cool(not used in temperatures above 34c as it will burn leaf, humidity at 60%) most of your mites and bugs are active then and late afternoon. Depending on the strength of the sulphur a rate of around 6 to 10 grms per 10Lts of water, I think this is about a teaspoon. If used correctly it will not harm the leaf, hope this helps.

thanks for that, Roseman.

Powdery mildew is my problem...don't seem to have black spot (crosses fingers,toes,etc)

I have a bottle of lime sulphur, which i will now put away until winter. I will try to find elemental sulphur. I've had limited success with mancozeb, although I sprayed with that again today. I've tried a few other commercial preparations, but haven't yet managed to find Fongarid anywhere locally.

Abbi wrote:thanks for that, Roseman.

Powdery mildew is my problem........

often the reason for PM is dryness. Maybe the roots of the roses are not yet full developed ?

A special (standard) recipe vs. PM in Germany is mik diluted in water (1:10), sprayed on the leaves and extensive watering of the plant

you can go this way without a risk

cheers
Bernhard

I havent tested it yet either Abbi. I was going to have a go with it on some gooseberries at work. Will let you know. I'll just have to wait for a day when it is a bit cooler or the oil can burn. Have heard of the milk trick and wondered if it would smell in the heat...

Thanks for the tip, Bemo....I think I remember a recipe involving milk, water and potassium permanganate. Does anyone know that one?

With a 1:10 ratio there's not a lot of milk there to smell bad, Ripley. I look forward to hearing the results of the other spray on your gooseberries.

Ripley, the Eco/Pest oils will not burn if used early morn/late afternoon. I have a preference for morning sprays as the plant is more receptive as the plant cells are open. The external cells close as the day warms to stop transpiration.

Hi guys has anybody tryed organic black spot spray and does it work.When they mention vegetable oil is that the oil you use in the kitchen cheers guys any help would be great.


Preparation

To one litre of water add two teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda, one drop of horticultural or vegetable oil and a drop of biodegradable washing up liquid. Shaking well before spraying thoroughly mixes the ingredients and helps to dissolve the bicarbonate of soda.

Spray the solution during the cool of the morning to reduce the risk of foliage being burned in intense sunshine before it dries. Wet both sides of leaves and stems until it begins to drip off. Reapply fortnightly or after rain, which rinses this non-persistent solution off. It is most effective when applied in the early stages of infection.

How it works

The detergent helps to spread the mix so it covers the leaf surface evenly. As the mix dries the oil sticks the bicarbonate of soda to the leaf. The bicarbonate of soda is the active ingredient, making the leaf surface alkaline. The spores of powdery mildew, rust and black spot don’t germinate well in an alkaline environment.

Danny there is some good advice on the ' Whats bugging my roses / black spot forum " have a look there , going to try some of those tips myself ..

maree wrote:Danny there is some good advice on the ' Whats bugging my roses / black spot forum " have a look there , going to try some of those tips myself ..

Thanks for that Maree ,but I cant find the black spot forum in Whats bugging my roses ???.

dannyboy wrote:Spray the solution during the cool of the morning to reduce the risk of foliage being burned in intense sunshine before it dries. Wet both sides of leaves and stems until it begins to drip off. Reapply fortnightly or after rain, which rinses this non-persistent solution off. It is most effective when applied in the early stages of infection.

If I had to do that for all my roses - well I could not physically do it. Better to pick varieties that suit where you live and you don't have the problems. If you do then you have to consider whether growing that plant is worth it.

Despite all the humidity rain etc our teas etc only get small amounts of BS. Some get powdery mildew in spring but it does not affect flowering. As we have plenty of water hosing off the spores is probably the best option though we generally don't bother.

We get a bit of scale and white mites that we hose off and leaf hoppers that suck the green out of the leaves that also come off with a hose. Yeah we could spray for these but once again we could not keep it up so we let them live. The roses still flower and that is probably the main thing.

A bit of early winter colour from the weekend

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Gary, nice colour coming into winter. Makes you feel warm as it is -3 here at present(7am).
What is going to grow over the blue arch Gary in the first photo ?

lovelly garden ...nice and colorfull

roseman wrote:Gary, nice colour coming into winter. Makes you feel warm as it is -3 here at present(7am).
What is going to grow over the blue arch Gary in the first photo ?

We have a couple Mrs BR Cant climbing on it similar to the one you can see to the right of the white dovehouse. The arch is gal pipe.

Also I realised last nght that the third photo is actually a couple of months old. It got mixed up with the recent ones as I hadn't used the camera since easter when that photo was taken.